The Kyle of Tongue by Abigail Rhodes
A crown jewel of the Queen of Scottish Mountains, Ben Loyal, has to be the Kyle of Tongue, an estuary fed by the Kinloch River to the south and many burns along its stretch. A variety of habitats provides for a variety of both flora and fauna, and a visit will not disappoint.
Before the Kyle of Tongue bridge was built in 1971 there were two ways of getting across the water, a ferry or a 10 mile road trip around the Kyle. Now that the bridge offers a direct route to Melness or over the Moine to Hope, Eriboll and Durness, the Kyle road is used less frequently and is suited to birdwatching ‘from the car’ which does allow you to get closer to the wildlife without too much disturbance. There are a couple of small parking areas, and passing-places all along this single-track road.
In winter, you are likely to see Great Northern Diver which use the shelter of the Kyle and are often seen south of the bridge. Little Grebe, Red-breasted Merganser, Shag, Cormorant, Grey Heron, Oystercatcher, Curlew, Redshank, Dunlin and Ringed Plover are almost always counted during my winter monthly Wetland Bird Survey (WeBS). In the summer months you could see Common Sandpiper, Greenshank, Redshank, Dunlin, Ringed Plover, Shelduck, Mallard, Common and Black-headed Gulls, Lesser, Herring and Great Black-backed Gulls, Skylark, Snipe, Lapwing, Wheatear, Rock and Meadow Pipit, Reed Bunting, Stone and Whinchat. Look out for Osprey, Peregrine, White-tailed Eagle and Golden Eagle which hunt the Kyle, and the occasional rarity which finds respite here.
In winter, you are likely to see Great Northern Diver which use the shelter of the Kyle and are often seen south of the bridge. Little Grebe, Red-breasted Merganser, Shag, Cormorant, Grey Heron, Oystercatcher, Curlew, Redshank, Dunlin and Ringed Plover are almost always counted during my winter monthly Wetland Bird Survey (WeBS). In the summer months you could see Common Sandpiper, Greenshank, Redshank, Dunlin, Ringed Plover, Shelduck, Mallard, Common and Black-headed Gulls, Lesser, Herring and Great Black-backed Gulls, Skylark, Snipe, Lapwing, Wheatear, Rock and Meadow Pipit, Reed Bunting, Stone and Whinchat. Look out for Osprey, Peregrine, White-tailed Eagle and Golden Eagle which hunt the Kyle, and the occasional rarity which finds respite here.
There are two large parking places on the Kyle causeway and a large area at the end of the bridge on the west side as well as a large parking area next to the cemetery on the Melness road (where I spotted my very first Otter hunting the shoreline in twilight). There is a wintering flock of around 200 Barnacle Geese and these are seen grazing the fields below Melness House or in the fields near Peter Burr’s Spar but this slightly out of area for this account. A very small flock of Bar-tailed Godwit may be seen on raised shore around the middle and to the North of the causeway.
Should you need to stretch your legs, or walk the dog, after a meal in Tongue village there is a lovely half-mile walk to Castle Varrich, an oddity perched on a steep-sided hillock. Public parking is provided opposite the Ben Loyal Hotel in the centre of Tongue village and the walk is signposted on the bank side of the road, in the direction of the junction. The path leads you past some fields, the local septic tanks, along a burn and over a wooden bridge where you may spot Dipper, then through ancient woodland where you are sure to see or hear Spotted Flycatcher and Blackcap. Up at the top you may be lucky to see the Raven or even luckier still, the Peregrine Falcon. I remember my first walk to the castle which provoked much debate with my husband as to the whys and wherefores of such a building which fails to live up to its promise of what many of us imagine a castle to be. On reaching the summit, the views down the Kyle are stunning and the call of the castle is forgiven.
Should you need to stretch your legs, or walk the dog, after a meal in Tongue village there is a lovely half-mile walk to Castle Varrich, an oddity perched on a steep-sided hillock. Public parking is provided opposite the Ben Loyal Hotel in the centre of Tongue village and the walk is signposted on the bank side of the road, in the direction of the junction. The path leads you past some fields, the local septic tanks, along a burn and over a wooden bridge where you may spot Dipper, then through ancient woodland where you are sure to see or hear Spotted Flycatcher and Blackcap. Up at the top you may be lucky to see the Raven or even luckier still, the Peregrine Falcon. I remember my first walk to the castle which provoked much debate with my husband as to the whys and wherefores of such a building which fails to live up to its promise of what many of us imagine a castle to be. On reaching the summit, the views down the Kyle are stunning and the call of the castle is forgiven.
Back on the road through Tongue village heading southwards you eventually pass the entrance to Ribigill Farm, part of the comedian David Mitchell’s ancestry, and a place to park before heading up to the syenite Corbett Queen, Ben Loyal. Back on the road, carry on up the hill, past Lochan na Cuilce on the right, through woodland then see to your left another lochan, Hakel which is steeped in gold, legends and Jacobean history. Look out for the Merlin and listen for the plaintive call of the Golden Plover. There is a cup and ring-marked rock at the far end of Hakel and a cup and ring-marked stone just off the road further down the hill on your right hand side. Dropping down the hill and crossing the Kinloch River you pass some beautiful old trees and the entrance to Kinloch Lodge and Cottage. Further along the road, past Kinloch House, there is Dun Mhaigh Broch which is well worthy of a visit with its fairly well preserved entrance and a short section of internal stairway. A large area on the west side of the Kyle was planted with native trees several years ago and it will be very interesting to see which species are attracted to it. I would love to see a pair of Hen Harriers breeding there!.
So, if you are travelling over the Moine from Durness, or alternatively from Caithness to Durness, plan a little time for a detour to cost the biota delights of the Kyle of Tongue!.
So, if you are travelling over the Moine from Durness, or alternatively from Caithness to Durness, plan a little time for a detour to cost the biota delights of the Kyle of Tongue!.
