Ullapool and Gruinard Bay (Written by Andy Williams)
Opportunities for birding the Northwest Highlands can, at first glance of a map, appear daunting- the area is vast, with main roads following deep sea lochs and skirting huge, Munro- filled mountain massifs. Having said that, much of the area is covered by a few contiguous habitats such as upland moorland and peat bog, bordered by extensive areas of montane and forested areas. Although these hold interesting birds, they do not have notable species diversity. For the visiting birder it is probably better to concentrate on the more diverse and complex habitat mosaics found in the coastal areas and river glens. It is not possible to cover the area thoroughly in an article of this nature, but hopefully a taste of the birding potential is provided.
The wider area does not experience much in the way of passerine migration, with most birds moving through the Western isles or the East coast of mainland Scotland. Additionally, many birds that are ‘common’ further south such as Redstart, Wood Warbler, Swift and Pied Flycatcher are near the northwestern limit of their respective ranges and are thus very localized in their occurrence. However, it is important to stress that the whole area is seriously under-watched so the potential for finding your own birds is considerable. Visiting birders should be well prepared for extreme weather and challenging driving conditions in all seasons, with roads being poorly maintained and often also used by deer, sheep and wild goats. Fuel is available in the main settlements of Poolewe, Laide, Dundonnell, Ullapool and Lochinver. Mobile phone coverage throughout the wider area is generally sporadic at best. Refer to Ordnance Survey Landranger series maps Nos. 15, 19 & 20.
The wider area does not experience much in the way of passerine migration, with most birds moving through the Western isles or the East coast of mainland Scotland. Additionally, many birds that are ‘common’ further south such as Redstart, Wood Warbler, Swift and Pied Flycatcher are near the northwestern limit of their respective ranges and are thus very localized in their occurrence. However, it is important to stress that the whole area is seriously under-watched so the potential for finding your own birds is considerable. Visiting birders should be well prepared for extreme weather and challenging driving conditions in all seasons, with roads being poorly maintained and often also used by deer, sheep and wild goats. Fuel is available in the main settlements of Poolewe, Laide, Dundonnell, Ullapool and Lochinver. Mobile phone coverage throughout the wider area is generally sporadic at best. Refer to Ordnance Survey Landranger series maps Nos. 15, 19 & 20.
Rubha Mor/Greenstone point/Mellon Udrigle (Car park at NG891959)
The Rubha Mor peninsula offers open moorland interspersed with a variety of lochans. The minor road to Opinan offers a patchwork of crofts and marshland and Mellon Udrigle has a good beach with a hinterland of dunes and turf. Common moorland species including Skylark, Stonechat, Meadow Pipit with occasional Dunlin, Curlew and Snipe are often seen. On passage, look for Whimbrel and Golden Plover. In winter look for Merlin, Buzzard and Raven. Sea watching from Greenstone Point can be good for skuas, Kittiwakes, Gannets and Fulmars as well as auks. Manx Shearwaters and Storm Petrels can also be seen on good days. (This site has the potential of turning up a Sabine’s or Mediterranean Gull!). The small estuary at Opinan has turned up Ruff during spring passage. Mellon Udrigle is a good site for early migrants such as Wheatear and Willow Warbler- check the trees around the Manse for other passerines. In autumn, flocks of winter thrushes and finches frequent the croft land around the beach area. The beach can hold Dunlin, Sanderling and Ringed Plover but is subject to much disturbance in the summer. On the sea look for Black Guillemot and all diver species.
The Rubha Mor peninsula offers open moorland interspersed with a variety of lochans. The minor road to Opinan offers a patchwork of crofts and marshland and Mellon Udrigle has a good beach with a hinterland of dunes and turf. Common moorland species including Skylark, Stonechat, Meadow Pipit with occasional Dunlin, Curlew and Snipe are often seen. On passage, look for Whimbrel and Golden Plover. In winter look for Merlin, Buzzard and Raven. Sea watching from Greenstone Point can be good for skuas, Kittiwakes, Gannets and Fulmars as well as auks. Manx Shearwaters and Storm Petrels can also be seen on good days. (This site has the potential of turning up a Sabine’s or Mediterranean Gull!). The small estuary at Opinan has turned up Ruff during spring passage. Mellon Udrigle is a good site for early migrants such as Wheatear and Willow Warbler- check the trees around the Manse for other passerines. In autumn, flocks of winter thrushes and finches frequent the croft land around the beach area. The beach can hold Dunlin, Sanderling and Ringed Plover but is subject to much disturbance in the summer. On the sea look for Black Guillemot and all diver species.
Gruinard Bay/Island (NG930930)
A large expanse of sheltered sea, with numerous rocky inlets and sandy bays. A great site for big numbers of divers, grebes and auks- particularly in the winter months. The area also sometimes holds small numbers of sea duck including Common Scoter and Long-tailed Duck. Common waders can be found on all sandy beaches. Both species of eagle frequent the coastal areas around the bay, although due to their expansive foraging behavior a certain amount of good fortune is required to encounter one. The bay itself is best viewed from a few key locations:
A large expanse of sheltered sea, with numerous rocky inlets and sandy bays. A great site for big numbers of divers, grebes and auks- particularly in the winter months. The area also sometimes holds small numbers of sea duck including Common Scoter and Long-tailed Duck. Common waders can be found on all sandy beaches. Both species of eagle frequent the coastal areas around the bay, although due to their expansive foraging behavior a certain amount of good fortune is required to encounter one. The bay itself is best viewed from a few key locations:
Laide (NG902922)
Divers and scoters are often close inshore. Check the rocks for Turnstone and occasional Purple Sandpipers. In late spring a few Common Tern frequent the bay and in summer Great Skuas are often on patrol.
Divers and scoters are often close inshore. Check the rocks for Turnstone and occasional Purple Sandpipers. In late spring a few Common Tern frequent the bay and in summer Great Skuas are often on patrol.
Little Gruinard (NG953899)
One of the best winter and early spring sites. Common waders frequent the sandy bay, with this being a favourite stop off point for passage Greenshank too. Good numbers of Slavonian Grebe utilise the sheltered bay, as do many wintering divers. In spring/summer the coastal trees hold returning migrants. Can be good following westerly blows.
One of the best winter and early spring sites. Common waders frequent the sandy bay, with this being a favourite stop off point for passage Greenshank too. Good numbers of Slavonian Grebe utilise the sheltered bay, as do many wintering divers. In spring/summer the coastal trees hold returning migrants. Can be good following westerly blows.
Mungasdale (NG960929)
The car park affords great views over Gruinard island and sound and is another great site for wintering divers and Slavonian Grebes, with these birds staying until late spring. The small bay holds gulls at low tide including occasional Iceland Gulls. Barnacle Geese over- winter in the arable fields just to the north of the farm. White-tailed Eagles regularly sit on the crags above the bay and also on the island.
The car park affords great views over Gruinard island and sound and is another great site for wintering divers and Slavonian Grebes, with these birds staying until late spring. The small bay holds gulls at low tide including occasional Iceland Gulls. Barnacle Geese over- winter in the arable fields just to the north of the farm. White-tailed Eagles regularly sit on the crags above the bay and also on the island.
Little Loch Broom/Dundonnell (NH090880)
This site offers good views of the sheltered waters of Little Loch Broom that also hold good numbers of divers, grebes and auks. A variety of raptors frequent the higher ground and ridges. The head of the loch offers a good area of saltmarsh and areas of open sediment that hold reasonable numbers of waders and sometimes geese and wild fowl. In winter, the salt marsh can produce an occasional Jack Snipe and in spring is often busy with Wheatear, Stonechat and pipits. The grass fields often attract mixed flocks of gulls that are always worth checking for a white-winger.
This site offers good views of the sheltered waters of Little Loch Broom that also hold good numbers of divers, grebes and auks. A variety of raptors frequent the higher ground and ridges. The head of the loch offers a good area of saltmarsh and areas of open sediment that hold reasonable numbers of waders and sometimes geese and wild fowl. In winter, the salt marsh can produce an occasional Jack Snipe and in spring is often busy with Wheatear, Stonechat and pipits. The grass fields often attract mixed flocks of gulls that are always worth checking for a white-winger.
Dundonnell House estate. (NH114855)
The minor road to Eilean Darach offers a pleasing walk through stands of mature trees and open parkland. A variety of woodland species occur including all the tits, finches, Treecreeper, Great Spotted Woodpecker etc. with a variety of raptors overhead. The river supports Grey Wagtails and Dippers. In winter, the site is good for wintering thrushes and is also the best local site for Brambling, that feed in and under the beech trees. A small bird hide at the Brack loch (NH110874) is worth checking during a lunch stop.
The minor road to Eilean Darach offers a pleasing walk through stands of mature trees and open parkland. A variety of woodland species occur including all the tits, finches, Treecreeper, Great Spotted Woodpecker etc. with a variety of raptors overhead. The river supports Grey Wagtails and Dippers. In winter, the site is good for wintering thrushes and is also the best local site for Brambling, that feed in and under the beech trees. A small bird hide at the Brack loch (NH110874) is worth checking during a lunch stop.
Upper Loch Broom (NH170855- NH195795)
The Glen at the head of the sea loch is an ancient glaciated ‘u’ shaped valley with rich farmland, dissected by the River Broom. It offers a mosaic of habitat including woodland walks, river- side scrub, forestry plantation, with heath and moorland/crags on the higher slopes. A wide variety of species occur including a few pairs of Whinchat, Redstart and Grey Wagtail. Commoner species include Tree Pipit and Spotted Flycatcher as well as the resident tits and finches. The pines near Braemore junction historically held Common Crossbill. A good network of easily accessible paths/tracks have been constructed by the estate and are good for all fitness levels, with some sections being wheel chair friendly. Best parking in Lael forest garden at NH196805 or on the minor road layby at NH185842.
The head of the sea loch near Clachan offers further salt marsh and tidal areas that hold small numbers of waders, geese, sea ducks and gulls. Moulting flocks of Goosander also frequent the area in the company of the occasional diver and Shelduck.
The Glen at the head of the sea loch is an ancient glaciated ‘u’ shaped valley with rich farmland, dissected by the River Broom. It offers a mosaic of habitat including woodland walks, river- side scrub, forestry plantation, with heath and moorland/crags on the higher slopes. A wide variety of species occur including a few pairs of Whinchat, Redstart and Grey Wagtail. Commoner species include Tree Pipit and Spotted Flycatcher as well as the resident tits and finches. The pines near Braemore junction historically held Common Crossbill. A good network of easily accessible paths/tracks have been constructed by the estate and are good for all fitness levels, with some sections being wheel chair friendly. Best parking in Lael forest garden at NH196805 or on the minor road layby at NH185842.
The head of the sea loch near Clachan offers further salt marsh and tidal areas that hold small numbers of waders, geese, sea ducks and gulls. Moulting flocks of Goosander also frequent the area in the company of the occasional diver and Shelduck.
Ullapool
The best birding is probably around the river mouth and coast path with a variety of gulls including Iceland and Glaucous often present. Small numbers of common waders can also be located and in winter, Wigeon and occasional Goldeneye are also to be found. The network of river-side paths to the North of the village are also worth checking for common woodland species and occasional local scarcities such as Wood Warbler, Garden Warbler and in autumn Yellow-browed Warbler and Firecrest.
The best birding is probably around the river mouth and coast path with a variety of gulls including Iceland and Glaucous often present. Small numbers of common waders can also be located and in winter, Wigeon and occasional Goldeneye are also to be found. The network of river-side paths to the North of the village are also worth checking for common woodland species and occasional local scarcities such as Wood Warbler, Garden Warbler and in autumn Yellow-browed Warbler and Firecrest.
Loch/Glen Achall
To the east of Ullapool, this is an expansive area with a large loch and significant coverage of birch forest with mature Alder stands on the low lying areas upstream of the loch. There is no vehicular access up through the quarry/estate access road, but the area is worth the walk for a leisurely day out in good weather. Following moderate rain the river will be in spate and is largely impossible to traverse so a decision must be made to walk the North side paved track (easiest) or the more demanding south shore. In winter the loch holds small numbers of wild fowl including Goldeneye, Tufted Duck and Whooper Swans. Winter thrushes frequent the Alders. An occasional White-tailed Eagle winters in the glen and Sparrowhawk, Kestrel, Buzzard, Peregrine and Merlin may also be encountered. Dependent upon the season, the glen is also home to Dipper, Grey Wagtail, Redstart, Spotted Flycatcher, Ring Ouzel, Common Sandpiper, Great Spotted Woodpecker, Red Grouse, Snipe and Golden Plover. |
Ardmair (NH108983)
A good coastal site for the winter and autumnal months. Good for divers, white-winged gulls and occasionally Slavonian and Little Grebes and White-tailed Eagles. Also holds sea birds after a westerly gale. Check the resident Greylag flocks for an occasional Tundra Bean Goose. The scrub around the campsite also holds finches and buntings during hard weather. Common waders along the shore. Worth checking the fish pens for rare/scarce gulls.
Ardmair (NH108983)
A good coastal site for the winter and autumnal months. Good for divers, white-winged gulls and occasionally Slavonian and Little Grebes and White-tailed Eagles. Also holds sea birds after a westerly gale. Check the resident Greylag flocks for an occasional Tundra Bean Goose. The scrub around the campsite also holds finches and buntings during hard weather. Common waders along the shore. Worth checking the fish pens for rare/scarce gulls.
Inverpolly area (NC140120)
An expanse of impressive mountain landscapes, interspersed with a myriad of lochs and lochans and a smattering of birch and alder in the sheltered areas. Typical, mountain species such as Golden Eagle, Peregrine, Red Grouse, Curlew, Stonechat, Meadow Pipit and Raven may be encountered anywhere. Often the best birding can be undertaken from a parked vehicle that affords views of the ridges or lochs. The birch forests appear full of Willow Warblers, Spotted Flycatchers, Cuckoos, Lesser Redpolls and Siskins in late spring/early summer.
An expanse of impressive mountain landscapes, interspersed with a myriad of lochs and lochans and a smattering of birch and alder in the sheltered areas. Typical, mountain species such as Golden Eagle, Peregrine, Red Grouse, Curlew, Stonechat, Meadow Pipit and Raven may be encountered anywhere. Often the best birding can be undertaken from a parked vehicle that affords views of the ridges or lochs. The birch forests appear full of Willow Warblers, Spotted Flycatchers, Cuckoos, Lesser Redpolls and Siskins in late spring/early summer.
Achnahaird bay – (Car park at NC016139)
A delightful bay offering a mix of sandy and rocky coasts with a hinterland of salt marsh, dune system and grazing pasture. A good range of bird species can be encountered throughout the year but spring and autumn wader passage offer the most interesting possibilities with historical records of Buff-breasted and Baird’s Sandpipers and near-annual occurrences of small numbers of Ruff and Curlew Sandpipers. Commoner species include Dunlin, Sanderling, Ringed Plover, Curlew, Whimbrel, Snipe, Turnstone, Purple Sandpiper and Lapwing. In winter, the dunes attract the occasional Merlin, Peregrine and Hen Harrier and White-tailed Eagles use the crags as observation posts. Spring sees good numbers of passage birds including noticeable numbers of ssp leucorhoa Wheatear, ‘alba-type’ wagtails and big flocks of Meadow Pipits. Skylarks, Stonechats and finches may be found anywhere, with Twite being locally abundant. In winter, the tideline turns up both snow and the occasional Lapland Bunting. The bay is good for divers and sea duck and the occasional white-winged gull over winters. Good numbers of Black Guillemot also move into the bay, as do Gannets, Fulmars and Kittiwakes- particularly during, or shortly after, a northerly blow. Nearby are extensive swathes of coastal croft land at Achiltibuie and Reiff and these are also worth checking during a visit to the area. A relatively large reed bed at nearby Polglass is good for Reed Bunting and Sedge Warbler and the area has also seen King Eider and Rose-coloured Starling recorded.
A delightful bay offering a mix of sandy and rocky coasts with a hinterland of salt marsh, dune system and grazing pasture. A good range of bird species can be encountered throughout the year but spring and autumn wader passage offer the most interesting possibilities with historical records of Buff-breasted and Baird’s Sandpipers and near-annual occurrences of small numbers of Ruff and Curlew Sandpipers. Commoner species include Dunlin, Sanderling, Ringed Plover, Curlew, Whimbrel, Snipe, Turnstone, Purple Sandpiper and Lapwing. In winter, the dunes attract the occasional Merlin, Peregrine and Hen Harrier and White-tailed Eagles use the crags as observation posts. Spring sees good numbers of passage birds including noticeable numbers of ssp leucorhoa Wheatear, ‘alba-type’ wagtails and big flocks of Meadow Pipits. Skylarks, Stonechats and finches may be found anywhere, with Twite being locally abundant. In winter, the tideline turns up both snow and the occasional Lapland Bunting. The bay is good for divers and sea duck and the occasional white-winged gull over winters. Good numbers of Black Guillemot also move into the bay, as do Gannets, Fulmars and Kittiwakes- particularly during, or shortly after, a northerly blow. Nearby are extensive swathes of coastal croft land at Achiltibuie and Reiff and these are also worth checking during a visit to the area. A relatively large reed bed at nearby Polglass is good for Reed Bunting and Sedge Warbler and the area has also seen King Eider and Rose-coloured Starling recorded.