Birding in the Northern Cairngorms (Written by Pete Gordon)
Of all the birding sites in Highland, this is probably the one that birders are most keen to visit for its range of species which are difficult, if not impossible, to see at home: montane birds such as Ptarmigan, Snow Bunting and Dotterel and, on lower ground, Crested Tit, Black Grouse and the three species of Crossbill. It may be a cliché to describe the Cairngorm plateau as the largest expanse of Arctic-Alpine habitat in the UK but this is why it is so special in birding terms. The terrain and unpredictable weather bring with them danger too. Should you get lost here in mist you may wander for miles over featureless terrain or slip over the edge of an unexpected precipice so the usual advice about carrying proper equipment, knowing how to use it and leaving word of your whereabouts applies. But on a warm, early summer morning with a hen Ptarmigan incubating at your feet as a pied Snow Bunting sings nearby there can be nowhere better to enjoy birding.
Cairngorm
On a fine day the circuit of the Northern Corries of Cairngorm – Coire Cas, Coire an t’Sneachda and Coire an Lochain (respectively the corries which are steep, snowy and lochan-holding)– should provide the regular mountain specialist birds. Start at the car park (donations invited) at NH990060. Ring Ouzels nest hereabouts, in the Alpine Garden or on the scree slope to the south-east and can often be seen searching for worms beneath the start of the ski-tows. In winter, flocks of Snow Buntings are regular on picnic tables but they move uphill to breed as the snow melts.
For an anti-clockwise circuit – it can equally be done the other way but that has a steeper, initial steep ascent –follow the well-made track west, then southwest. You are in Red Grouse territory here – doing well without heather-burning, predator management or medicated grit to prevent disease – although densities are nothing like those found managed moorland and sometimes when they are hunkered down they can be difficult to find. Often Meadow Pipit will be the only other species hereabouts (and even they are only summer migrants here) but Dippers do wander up the streams and can occasionally be found even in the higher corrie lochans. Ignore the tracks branching uphill until you come to NH982046 when you should follow the path leading to the long ridge between Coire an Lochain and Lurcher’s Gully to the west (unnamed on OS maps but the stream flowing out is named as Allt Creag an Leth-choin- the “Burn of Lurcher’s Crag”). This ridge is one of the most reliable places for finding ptarmigan, from about the 750m contour line upwards. Carefully scan the bouldery ground ahead of you but don’t be surprised to come across one scrutinising you within spitting range. As the track – obvious, unless it’s snow covered! – leaves the flattish area of the (unnamed) Lurcher’s Meadow and heads steeply uphill, head in a more easterly direction, making for the top of the cliffs of Cairn Lochain. If it’s misty or snow is still lying above the cliffs there’s probably little point in birding here though and return the way you’ve come unless you are an experienced hillwalker. Otherwise, follow the edge of the corries but take great care as a fall here is likely to end your life-list prematurely. There are magnificent views in all directions and take your time to look out for more ptarmigan hiding amidst the rocks. At any time of year snow buntings may be found here and singing birds often enliven a spring visit. Migrant (and occasionally breeding) wheatears are regular here. There is no safe descent route to the north until you come to the Fiacaill a’Choire Chais (“Teeth of the Steep Corrie”) but it’s better to continue to the summit of Cairngorm, Britain’s sixth-highest mountain. Snow Buntings often come looking for picnic crumbs here and can be very tame. Now descend the line of cairns northward to the 1097 Restaurant, formerly known as the Ptarmigan Restaurant, where walkers can ring a bell for entry. You are now, appropriately, at 1097m and with 460m still to descend have several options. You can pay to go down the Funicular – note that it cannot be used upwards for access to the plateau under an agreement to lessen unwitting disturbance to wildlife by walkers. Alternatively, you can follow the crudely-bulldozed track through the ski area or, better, follow the well-made footpath to the NE marked on maps as Sron an Aonaich (Nose of the Ridge) but also known as the Windy Ridge – both names are appropriate and this path offers a final chance to see Ptarmigan until, again at about the 750m line, you are more likely to encounter Red Grouse. The free-ranging Reindeer herd can often be seen here.
But what about the other mountain specialities? There are several points along this route where Dotterel can be seen from early May until mid-August – flat or gently-sloping ground with very short, or no, vegetation suits them best. They can be encountered boldly standing their ground on the paths but may be surprisingly elusive as they are well-camouflaged and incubating males sit very tight. Inadvertent disturbance by walkers is a very real threat to these specially-protected birds however and birders have a special duty if they find Dotterels to have a look then move on quickly. Occasionally a Snowy Owl will summer on the plateau and Purple Sandpiper, Shore Lark and Lapland Bunting have all nested at least once. Other Arctic breeders such as Turnstone, Ringed Plover (tundrae race) and Sanderling have been recorded, rarely, on high ground of the Cairngorms but there are more reliable sites for these species!
On a fine day the circuit of the Northern Corries of Cairngorm – Coire Cas, Coire an t’Sneachda and Coire an Lochain (respectively the corries which are steep, snowy and lochan-holding)– should provide the regular mountain specialist birds. Start at the car park (donations invited) at NH990060. Ring Ouzels nest hereabouts, in the Alpine Garden or on the scree slope to the south-east and can often be seen searching for worms beneath the start of the ski-tows. In winter, flocks of Snow Buntings are regular on picnic tables but they move uphill to breed as the snow melts.
For an anti-clockwise circuit – it can equally be done the other way but that has a steeper, initial steep ascent –follow the well-made track west, then southwest. You are in Red Grouse territory here – doing well without heather-burning, predator management or medicated grit to prevent disease – although densities are nothing like those found managed moorland and sometimes when they are hunkered down they can be difficult to find. Often Meadow Pipit will be the only other species hereabouts (and even they are only summer migrants here) but Dippers do wander up the streams and can occasionally be found even in the higher corrie lochans. Ignore the tracks branching uphill until you come to NH982046 when you should follow the path leading to the long ridge between Coire an Lochain and Lurcher’s Gully to the west (unnamed on OS maps but the stream flowing out is named as Allt Creag an Leth-choin- the “Burn of Lurcher’s Crag”). This ridge is one of the most reliable places for finding ptarmigan, from about the 750m contour line upwards. Carefully scan the bouldery ground ahead of you but don’t be surprised to come across one scrutinising you within spitting range. As the track – obvious, unless it’s snow covered! – leaves the flattish area of the (unnamed) Lurcher’s Meadow and heads steeply uphill, head in a more easterly direction, making for the top of the cliffs of Cairn Lochain. If it’s misty or snow is still lying above the cliffs there’s probably little point in birding here though and return the way you’ve come unless you are an experienced hillwalker. Otherwise, follow the edge of the corries but take great care as a fall here is likely to end your life-list prematurely. There are magnificent views in all directions and take your time to look out for more ptarmigan hiding amidst the rocks. At any time of year snow buntings may be found here and singing birds often enliven a spring visit. Migrant (and occasionally breeding) wheatears are regular here. There is no safe descent route to the north until you come to the Fiacaill a’Choire Chais (“Teeth of the Steep Corrie”) but it’s better to continue to the summit of Cairngorm, Britain’s sixth-highest mountain. Snow Buntings often come looking for picnic crumbs here and can be very tame. Now descend the line of cairns northward to the 1097 Restaurant, formerly known as the Ptarmigan Restaurant, where walkers can ring a bell for entry. You are now, appropriately, at 1097m and with 460m still to descend have several options. You can pay to go down the Funicular – note that it cannot be used upwards for access to the plateau under an agreement to lessen unwitting disturbance to wildlife by walkers. Alternatively, you can follow the crudely-bulldozed track through the ski area or, better, follow the well-made footpath to the NE marked on maps as Sron an Aonaich (Nose of the Ridge) but also known as the Windy Ridge – both names are appropriate and this path offers a final chance to see Ptarmigan until, again at about the 750m line, you are more likely to encounter Red Grouse. The free-ranging Reindeer herd can often be seen here.
But what about the other mountain specialities? There are several points along this route where Dotterel can be seen from early May until mid-August – flat or gently-sloping ground with very short, or no, vegetation suits them best. They can be encountered boldly standing their ground on the paths but may be surprisingly elusive as they are well-camouflaged and incubating males sit very tight. Inadvertent disturbance by walkers is a very real threat to these specially-protected birds however and birders have a special duty if they find Dotterels to have a look then move on quickly. Occasionally a Snowy Owl will summer on the plateau and Purple Sandpiper, Shore Lark and Lapland Bunting have all nested at least once. Other Arctic breeders such as Turnstone, Ringed Plover (tundrae race) and Sanderling have been recorded, rarely, on high ground of the Cairngorms but there are more reliable sites for these species!
Glenmore area
The circuit round Glenmore (“Big glen”) should provide a variety of woodland species with the bonus of waterbirds on Loch Morlich. There are good tracks all round and there is free parking at the Northwestern corner of the loch at NH956097 or (charged) parking further east at several points along the roadside. The north side can be very busy with cars, walkers, cyclists, cross-country skiers, roller-skiers, canoeists, dinghy sailors, wind-surfers and even swimmers and sun-bathers but birders will prefer an early morning visit before any crowds arrive. Crested Tits are regular but are most easily found if you recognise their churring call. Crossbills, too, are fairly commonly heard and Common, Scottish and Parrot all occur but specific identification is difficult: some are larger-billed, some are deeper-voiced but evidence in the shape of a recording of calls is needed for acceptance by Highland Records Committee. What you choose to tick is up to you, of course! Siskin and Bullfinch are easier to nail, Lesser Redpolls are widespread whilst in summer Spotted Flycatcher, Blackcap, Redstart and Tree Pipit are commonly found. Common Sandpipers are common at the lochside although the former breeding population of Greenshanks has died out. Red-throated divers are frequent visitors and Goldeneyes and Goosanders, often with broods of ducklings, are seen regularly.
There are a few other nearby places worth a visit. Try walking from Glenmore Lodge (limited free parking at NH985095, charged parking at NH980095) northeastward along the track past An Lochan Uaine (“The Green Lochan”) to Ryvoan Bothy at NJ005115. This is one of the most dependable routes for Crested Tit and Stonechat is frequent in open ground. Black Grouse occurs here but, as ever, early mornings are best as this is a popular walking route. An ascent of Meall a’Bhuachaille (“Herdsman’s Hill”) from Ryvoan, descending from the top first west then southwest gives good views but the hill is insufficiently high for any of the mountain birds: expect Red Grouse and Meadow Pipit, perhaps Wheatear, Raven and Buzzard. The free car park at Coire na Ciste (NH997074) may give good views of lekking Black Grouse in spring or autumn and RSPB, with FCS and Cairngorm Mountain, run regular events there. This is also a spot where Ring Ouzel is frequently seen.
Loch an Eilein (“Loch of the Island”) is a popular site for visitors and is a famous, former Osprey nesting site. An overflying Osprey is still a possibility but this is equally true of the middle of Aviemore. Crested Tit and Crossbills are more likely and Green Woodpecker (scarce in Highland) is sometimes heard here. There is a charged car park at the end of road at NH897086.
The end of the public road at Whitewell (free parking at NH916085) provides access to both the famous Lairig Ghru (“Pass of Druie”) and lonely Gleann Einich (“Marsh Valley”). Crossbills and Crested Tits can be found in the pinewoods and further up Ring Ouzel, Grey Wagtail, Dipper, Common Sandpiper, Golden Eagle and Peregrine can be seen by those prepared for a long and rugged walk.
The circuit round Glenmore (“Big glen”) should provide a variety of woodland species with the bonus of waterbirds on Loch Morlich. There are good tracks all round and there is free parking at the Northwestern corner of the loch at NH956097 or (charged) parking further east at several points along the roadside. The north side can be very busy with cars, walkers, cyclists, cross-country skiers, roller-skiers, canoeists, dinghy sailors, wind-surfers and even swimmers and sun-bathers but birders will prefer an early morning visit before any crowds arrive. Crested Tits are regular but are most easily found if you recognise their churring call. Crossbills, too, are fairly commonly heard and Common, Scottish and Parrot all occur but specific identification is difficult: some are larger-billed, some are deeper-voiced but evidence in the shape of a recording of calls is needed for acceptance by Highland Records Committee. What you choose to tick is up to you, of course! Siskin and Bullfinch are easier to nail, Lesser Redpolls are widespread whilst in summer Spotted Flycatcher, Blackcap, Redstart and Tree Pipit are commonly found. Common Sandpipers are common at the lochside although the former breeding population of Greenshanks has died out. Red-throated divers are frequent visitors and Goldeneyes and Goosanders, often with broods of ducklings, are seen regularly.
There are a few other nearby places worth a visit. Try walking from Glenmore Lodge (limited free parking at NH985095, charged parking at NH980095) northeastward along the track past An Lochan Uaine (“The Green Lochan”) to Ryvoan Bothy at NJ005115. This is one of the most dependable routes for Crested Tit and Stonechat is frequent in open ground. Black Grouse occurs here but, as ever, early mornings are best as this is a popular walking route. An ascent of Meall a’Bhuachaille (“Herdsman’s Hill”) from Ryvoan, descending from the top first west then southwest gives good views but the hill is insufficiently high for any of the mountain birds: expect Red Grouse and Meadow Pipit, perhaps Wheatear, Raven and Buzzard. The free car park at Coire na Ciste (NH997074) may give good views of lekking Black Grouse in spring or autumn and RSPB, with FCS and Cairngorm Mountain, run regular events there. This is also a spot where Ring Ouzel is frequently seen.
Loch an Eilein (“Loch of the Island”) is a popular site for visitors and is a famous, former Osprey nesting site. An overflying Osprey is still a possibility but this is equally true of the middle of Aviemore. Crested Tit and Crossbills are more likely and Green Woodpecker (scarce in Highland) is sometimes heard here. There is a charged car park at the end of road at NH897086.
The end of the public road at Whitewell (free parking at NH916085) provides access to both the famous Lairig Ghru (“Pass of Druie”) and lonely Gleann Einich (“Marsh Valley”). Crossbills and Crested Tits can be found in the pinewoods and further up Ring Ouzel, Grey Wagtail, Dipper, Common Sandpiper, Golden Eagle and Peregrine can be seen by those prepared for a long and rugged walk.
Glen Feshie Hills
Despite the lower starting height than for Cairngorm (330m as opposed to 640m) this has long been a popular area with birdwatchers wanting to see Scotland’s mountain specialities. Start at the free car park near the end of the public road at NN851985. This is a good area for Lesser Redpoll, Redstart and, until a couple of hard winters reduced the population, for Stonechat. Follow the road to Achlean, whence you can carry on exploring the pinewoods for Crested Tit and Crossbills. If you are lucky you may see Capercaillie and, in early morning, be drawn to the sound of lekking Black Grouse. Buzzard and Raven are frequent and Golden Eagle quite likely. The River Feshie holds Goosander, Common Sandpiper, Dipper and Grey Wagtail and the sense of wildness and remoteness increases as you move southwards.
But for access to the hills, leave Achlean by the eastward track. Pass through a plantation where Crested Tit is seen regularly, often feeding in the heather during winter and Black Grouse may crash out of the trees. The well-made track through Coire Fhearnagan provides a steady pull through heather moorland but Red Grouse, Carrion Crow and Meadow Pipit are likely to be the only birds seen. After a slight col at 740m is passed the vegetation becomes shorter and Ptarmigan becomes more likely than Red Grouse. Another 290m of ascent brings one to the plateau. Heading south takes one into the Moine Mhor (“big moss”) – a featureless place to be avoided in misty weather but, if you seek solitude, Golden Plover and Dunlin, it has its appeal. Birders will probably head north over Carn Ban Mor (“Big white hill”) towards Sgor Gaoith (“Windy Hill”) and look far down from the summit towards remote Loch Einich. Ring Ouzels sing from the crags and Golden Eagle and Peregrine are frequently seen. These hills are not so good for Snow Buntings but there are a few Ptarmigans and look out for Dotterels on flattish ground. Either retrace your steps or continue, steeply, down to the Allt Ruadh (“Red Burn”) and follow the delightful path through Caledonian pinewood to a (free) car park at NH852012. If you haven’t left a second vehicle there you have a 4km walk back southwards but with the possibility of more woodland birds. Although this route can be followed in reverse, the absence of a path on much of the ascent makes that a less attractive option.
Despite the lower starting height than for Cairngorm (330m as opposed to 640m) this has long been a popular area with birdwatchers wanting to see Scotland’s mountain specialities. Start at the free car park near the end of the public road at NN851985. This is a good area for Lesser Redpoll, Redstart and, until a couple of hard winters reduced the population, for Stonechat. Follow the road to Achlean, whence you can carry on exploring the pinewoods for Crested Tit and Crossbills. If you are lucky you may see Capercaillie and, in early morning, be drawn to the sound of lekking Black Grouse. Buzzard and Raven are frequent and Golden Eagle quite likely. The River Feshie holds Goosander, Common Sandpiper, Dipper and Grey Wagtail and the sense of wildness and remoteness increases as you move southwards.
But for access to the hills, leave Achlean by the eastward track. Pass through a plantation where Crested Tit is seen regularly, often feeding in the heather during winter and Black Grouse may crash out of the trees. The well-made track through Coire Fhearnagan provides a steady pull through heather moorland but Red Grouse, Carrion Crow and Meadow Pipit are likely to be the only birds seen. After a slight col at 740m is passed the vegetation becomes shorter and Ptarmigan becomes more likely than Red Grouse. Another 290m of ascent brings one to the plateau. Heading south takes one into the Moine Mhor (“big moss”) – a featureless place to be avoided in misty weather but, if you seek solitude, Golden Plover and Dunlin, it has its appeal. Birders will probably head north over Carn Ban Mor (“Big white hill”) towards Sgor Gaoith (“Windy Hill”) and look far down from the summit towards remote Loch Einich. Ring Ouzels sing from the crags and Golden Eagle and Peregrine are frequently seen. These hills are not so good for Snow Buntings but there are a few Ptarmigans and look out for Dotterels on flattish ground. Either retrace your steps or continue, steeply, down to the Allt Ruadh (“Red Burn”) and follow the delightful path through Caledonian pinewood to a (free) car park at NH852012. If you haven’t left a second vehicle there you have a 4km walk back southwards but with the possibility of more woodland birds. Although this route can be followed in reverse, the absence of a path on much of the ascent makes that a less attractive option.